Shirt Pattern to Renaissance Robe--Pt. 2

Last week I described how I used a commercial shirt pattern to make a Renaissance Robe.  I had the body cut out and assembled for the first fitting, and had to recut the armholes and neckline afterward.

Due to the enlargement of the armhole, I checked the size of the sleeve cap.  I measured the circumference of the armhole, and that of the sleeve cap, which turned out to be too small.  My rule of thumb is that the sleeve cap should measure about 1-2 in larger than the armhole.  It's easy to ease in the excess or reduce it slightly when setting the sleeve.  I enlarged the sleeve cap by extending the width of the sleeve at the underarm seam. Then I tapered the sleeve to the forearm, just above the slit for the cuff.

Likewise, the collar needed to be lengthened by about 1 inch, because the neckline was lowered in front.  In the case of collars, they should measure no more than 1/2 inch larger than the neckline, for a perfect fit.  For a standing band collar such as this one, it is also important to sew precisely at the front edges, so that the collar is exactly the same width on both sides.  This flat sew on hook is ideal for band collar fastening.

Having sewn in the collar and sleeves, I called the client for a second fitting.

This confirmed that everything was on track, and I could finish the robe.

One detail I added was a cuff facing. The open cuff could have been okay with just a narrow hem around the edges or even a band backing the cuff edge, but I decided to face the lower sleeve from above the slit end to the cuff. That way, if the inside showed through the slit, it would look finished.

I cut the facing from the sleeve pattern, ending it about 1 inch above the slit. Once the sleeve seam has been sewn, it is easy to sew the facing on, stitching the edges inside the sleeve seam, so it overlaps the end of the slit.

Don't forget when sewing the hem, to sew the front facing to the hem turn-up first, then finish the rest of the hem.  This way there will be a smooth line down the front opening, if and when it folds open to show the inside.

For a flared skirt, the ideal hem width is 1/2-1 inch, wide enough to provide some weight at the bottom, but not so wide that gathering or pleating is required because of the flare.  On a robe this elegant, I like to sew the hem by hand, so there is no outside line of stitching showing. 

The final outfit, as you can see, is quite elegant, yet dignified.  I give credit to the wonderful fabric of the robe, which gives it drape and flare, without being stiff.