If you are looking for a dressmaker, tailor, seamstress or other sewing professional to make your wedding dress, copy your favorite shirt, do alterations on your wardrobe, or finally sew that kick-ass Renaissance outfit you've always wanted, there are a number of do's and don'ts. I'm going to start with the don'ts, simply because I'm in the mood, having encountered several of these recently.
First, don't tell horror stories about previous seamstresses you've encountered.
Think about it this way, would you want to date someone who starts by telling you about how terrible his last girlfriend was?
Second, don't tell me about the wonderful lady who used to sew for you and only charged you $50 for a formal dress.
Likewise, would you want to date someone who talks about how wonderful his late wife was?
What happened to your dream seamstress? Did she starve to death? Get a real job that actually paid minimum wage? Ascend to heaven?
Third, own your control issues. I'm always wary when someone tells me,
"I've always enjoyed having my clothes custom made, and I'm sure you can do this."
This also manifests as obvious flattery, "I'm sure I'll like your work," or the intentionally luring statement "I have a lot of friends that I'll give your name to, if I like your work." This is like the guy who promises to put you in the movies before he's even bought dinner.
Custom sewing is a collaboration. If the client wants to be "in charge", this is not going to be a give and take relationship. That's not to say that the client doesn't have a lot of power—it is her decision whether to employ me, and I defer to her choices and decisions at each stage of the project. But ultimately I have to have control over the process, or it becomes about control rather than the project itself.
Fourth, don't tell me how simple it the project is, or how you could do it yourself, but you just don't have the time.
My standard answer to this is to point out that a simple design usually requires more precise fitting than one with lots of detailed features that distract the eye from imperfections in the fit. Ultimately, the statement that something is "simple" is a subtle demeaning of my skills. If it were really simple, why don't you make it yourself?
A variation on this last gambit is the woman who brags about the wonderful clothing she has made in the past, which is revealed to be the distant past. Isn't it amazing how the passage of time erases all memory of our imperfections?
Another variation is the man who tries to impress me with his knowledge of tailoring. That's like the waiter who "approves" your wine selection. Hey, I'm the hired help, a tradesperson. I should be showing off for the prospective client, not the other way around!
Fifth, please don't tell me you're a "perfect size ##". If that were so, why do you need custom sewing? You could fit off the rack.
I once had a prospect tell me that she expected me to "make her beautiful". She was attractive, but her style photos were publicity shots from the Oscar Awards. My job is not to make anyone beautiful, it is to make an attractive garment that fits and looks good. The rest is up to the client. If someone expects me to work miracles, it's a setup for failure and conflict.
Sixth, don't be a cheapskate. If you think $100 is an expensive dress, don't go looking for custom sewing. I bill at $30-$50 per hour, which is half what your mechanic charges, and I've been sewing twice as long. Very few projects can be completed with less than 10 hours' work. Likewise, do your homework on fabric prices, but not on eBay. Retail fabric now averages at LEAST $9 per yard. Don't bring me $3 costume satin and expect me to make a designer dress out of it.
Finally, MAKE UP YOUR MIND! Don't come to me with a project and then change your mind after I've set the price, and complain that the price changes. The easiest way to sabotage a project is to change your mind halfway through it. "Oh I just wanted to ask you about one little thing...." are some of the worst words I ever want to hear.
Next week, I'll give you the good news--what you SHOULD do when hiring a custom tailor or costumer.
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