Looking for a Dressmaker/Seamstress? Here's What NOT to Do!

The Seven Deadly Sins of Hiring a Custom Seamstress
 If you are looking for a dressmaker, tailor, seamstress or other sewing professional to make your wedding dress, copy your favorite shirt, do alterations on your wardrobe, or finally sew that kick-ass Renaissance outfit you've always wanted, there are a number of do's and don'ts.  I'm going to start with the don'ts, simply because I'm in the mood, having encountered several of these recently.

First, don't tell horror stories about previous seamstresses you've encountered.

Think about it this way, would you want to date someone who starts by telling you about how terrible his last girlfriend was?

Second, don't tell me about the wonderful lady who used to sew for you and only charged you $50 for a formal dress.

Likewise, would you want to date someone who talks about how wonderful his late wife was?

What happened to your dream seamstress?  Did she starve to death?  Get a real job that actually paid minimum wage?  Ascend to heaven?

Third, own your control issues.  I'm always wary when someone tells me,

"I've always enjoyed having my clothes custom made, and I'm sure you can do this." 

This also manifests as obvious flattery, "I'm sure I'll like your work," or the intentionally luring statement "I have a lot of friends that I'll give your name to, if I like your work."   This is like the guy who promises to put you in the movies before he's even bought dinner.

Custom sewing is a collaboration. If the client wants to be "in charge", this is not going to be a give and take relationship. That's not to say that the client doesn't have a lot of power—it is her decision whether to employ me, and I defer to her choices and decisions at each stage of the project. But ultimately I have to have control over the process, or it becomes about control rather than the project itself. 

Fourth, don't tell me how simple it the project is, or how you could do it yourself, but you just don't have the time. 

My standard answer to this is to point out that a simple design usually requires more precise fitting than one with lots of detailed features that distract the eye from imperfections in the fit. Ultimately, the statement that something is "simple" is a subtle demeaning of my skills. If it were really simple, why don't you make it yourself?

A variation on this last gambit is the woman who brags about the wonderful clothing she has made in the past, which is revealed to be the distant past.  Isn't it amazing how the passage of time erases all memory of our imperfections?  

Another variation is the man who tries to impress me with his knowledge of tailoring.  That's like the waiter who "approves" your wine selection.  Hey, I'm the hired help, a tradesperson.  I should be showing off for the prospective client, not the other way around!

Fifth, please don't tell me you're a "perfect size ##".   If that were so, why do you need custom sewing?  You could fit off the rack.

I once had a prospect tell me that she expected me to "make her beautiful". She was attractive, but her style photos were publicity shots from the Oscar Awards. My job is not to make anyone beautiful, it is to make an attractive garment that fits and looks good. The rest is up to the client. If someone expects me to work miracles, it's a setup for failure and conflict.

Sixth,  don't be a cheapskate.  If you think $100 is an expensive dress, don't go looking for custom sewing. I bill at $30-$50 per hour, which is half what your mechanic charges, and I've been sewing twice as long.  Very few projects can be completed with less than 10 hours' work.  Likewise, do your homework on fabric prices, but not on eBay.  Retail fabric now averages at LEAST $9 per yard.  Don't bring me $3 costume satin and expect me to make a designer dress out of it. 

Finally, MAKE UP YOUR MIND!  Don't come to me with a project and then change your mind after I've set the price, and complain that the price changes.  The easiest way to sabotage a project is to change your mind halfway through it.  "Oh I just wanted to ask you about one little thing...." are some of the worst words I ever want to hear.

Next week, I'll give you the good news--what you SHOULD do when hiring a custom tailor or costumer.

Shirt Pattern to Renaissance Robe--Pt. 2

Last week I described how I used a commercial shirt pattern to make a Renaissance Robe.  I had the body cut out and assembled for the first fitting, and had to recut the armholes and neckline afterward.

Due to the enlargement of the armhole, I checked the size of the sleeve cap.  I measured the circumference of the armhole, and that of the sleeve cap, which turned out to be too small.  My rule of thumb is that the sleeve cap should measure about 1-2 in larger than the armhole.  It's easy to ease in the excess or reduce it slightly when setting the sleeve.  I enlarged the sleeve cap by extending the width of the sleeve at the underarm seam. Then I tapered the sleeve to the forearm, just above the slit for the cuff.

Likewise, the collar needed to be lengthened by about 1 inch, because the neckline was lowered in front.  In the case of collars, they should measure no more than 1/2 inch larger than the neckline, for a perfect fit.  For a standing band collar such as this one, it is also important to sew precisely at the front edges, so that the collar is exactly the same width on both sides.  This flat sew on hook is ideal for band collar fastening.

Having sewn in the collar and sleeves, I called the client for a second fitting.

This confirmed that everything was on track, and I could finish the robe.

One detail I added was a cuff facing. The open cuff could have been okay with just a narrow hem around the edges or even a band backing the cuff edge, but I decided to face the lower sleeve from above the slit end to the cuff. That way, if the inside showed through the slit, it would look finished.

I cut the facing from the sleeve pattern, ending it about 1 inch above the slit. Once the sleeve seam has been sewn, it is easy to sew the facing on, stitching the edges inside the sleeve seam, so it overlaps the end of the slit.

Don't forget when sewing the hem, to sew the front facing to the hem turn-up first, then finish the rest of the hem.  This way there will be a smooth line down the front opening, if and when it folds open to show the inside.

For a flared skirt, the ideal hem width is 1/2-1 inch, wide enough to provide some weight at the bottom, but not so wide that gathering or pleating is required because of the flare.  On a robe this elegant, I like to sew the hem by hand, so there is no outside line of stitching showing. 

The final outfit, as you can see, is quite elegant, yet dignified.  I give credit to the wonderful fabric of the robe, which gives it drape and flare, without being stiff.