Alterations 101: Taking in a Knit Skirt or Pants Elastic Waistband

I recently took in the elastic waistbands on a couple of skirts for a client.  This is a relatively simple and common alteration that you can do yourself, even by hand if necessary.  You'll need a seam ripper, matching thread, a pair of smaller (5-7 in) scissors and some pins. 

First you want to measure carefully how much to take in.  An elastic waist should not be stretched to the limit, but it should be snug to prevent shifting when you move.  In this case, the client had lost a significant amount of weight, and I was taking the skirts in about 7 inches.  I decided to divide that into two darts (seams that taper to nothing) in the back.  The math goes:  7 inches, divided by two darts, divided by 2 (folds), makes 1.75 in deep folds.  I then measured the back of the waistband and found the center,  and marked the 1/4 points, to center the darts.

Now for the part that requires patience:  opening the waistband.  Take your seam ripper and find the stitching that sews the back of the waistband down.  I like to cut every second or third stitch, and then I can pull the waistband away from the seam.  Open it at least an inch or two further than you'll need for the darts, to allow you to lay it flat.  Also pick open the seam where the elastic is sewn to the fabric edge. 

This skirt just folds the fabric over the elastic to make the waistband.  Lay the back flat and mark where you want the dart folds (1/4 points) inside.  Then cut the elastic and fold the fabric along the vertical lines.  Measure the depth of the folds at the waistband, and then taper down 6-8 inches to the fold.

 I like to draw the seam line in chalk, as well as pin it, so I don't get lost and wander while I'm sewing the dart.

Overlap the elastic, and only trim the seams and elastic if you are sure you won't want t let it back out after a while.  Use a wide zig-zag stitch to reattach the elastic to the waistband edge.

Now, turn the waistband down and pin it to the skirt, distributing the gathers.  It helps to start in the middle, and keep dividing the fabric in half until the gathers are small.  From the outside of the waistband, stitch it down, staying in the line of the original stitching.  As you can see, it is not easy to keep it flat and even.  But since the waistband is rarely worn visible, this result is acceptable.

The darts are lost in the gathers, and your waist should fit better now, at least until your weight changes again!