How to Make a Tie-On Steampunk Bustle

A relatively simple accessory that can turn a long skirt (from the thrift store!) into a Victorian outfit is a bustle.
What you see here is the key--it only looks complicated when you're wearing it....

I got into this, BTW, through a YouTube video.  The basic design is a set of rectangular bands of fabric, each at least one width of the fabric wide.  If it's 45" fabric and you're larger than a size 12, you might want to double it, with a seam down the middle.   For a five layer bustle, as shown,  you'll want three layers of one fabric and two layers of the contrasting fabric.  Measure how long the whole thing should hang, I recommend 20-24 inches. 

If your longest band is 24 in (first fabric), the next one will be 22 in (contrast fabric), then 20 in (first fabric), then 18 in (contrast fabric), then 16 in (first fabric).  Totals, you'll need  60 in of the first fabric and 40 in of the contrast fabric.  If you are doubling either, then double the amount of fabric.

Square off your fabric (I use my cutting table edges) and then cut your bands from each fabric. Then line them up with the selvedge edges together, and one long side aligned for the hem.  They should all still be folded at the center, the way the fabric comes on the bolt, unless you are doubling the width of any layers.  With the bottom corners all nicely lined up, mark 8 inches up and 8 inches over from the corner, and draw a nice curve around the corner with marking pen or chalk.  Then cut the curved corner for all the layers. If you doubled the width, sew the center seams.

At this point, I get out the serger and overcast all the edges with matching thread so I don't have to deal with ravels and such.

Next add your trim. How much trim should you buy?  I buy in 20-50 yard boards, so if you're buying just for this bustle, cut your fabric and then measure.  I like to sew trim on with a serpentine or broken zigzag stitch, using an embroidery foot to jump over the bump of the trim, especially if it's lumpy like gimp.

Now for the only tricky part.  Depending on how stiff your fabric is, you will need to add some tulle netting underneath. Whether you use the fine illusion netting or the stiffer hex netting is up to you.  Take each band and lay it out on the netting to cut it, then unfold the netting and pin it to the top.   My first few bustles, I gathered the netting, but now I just sew it flat to the top edge of the band.  One or two layers should be enough.  Trim the netting at the curved corners so it doesn't stick out.

Starting with the bottom band, line up the waist edge on the contrasting band above it and baste them together.   If you doubled one, you'll need to pleat or gather it to the width of the narrower band.  Then baste on the middle band at the waist edge.

At this point, I like to sew the top two bands together, and then sew all five layers at the waist edge.  A trick I use for dealing with the multiple layers is to use a longer stitch and my heavy duty presser foot that just has the straight stitch hole.  And if you can, bump up your needle size to a 16. 

Now for the waistband...cut a strip of fabric 4 in wide and the width of the bustle.  Overcast one long edge.  Right sides together, sew it to the waist edge of the bustle, using a longer than normal stitch and your heavy duty foot and needle.  Then, with all the pins out, sew it again, with a shorter stitch.

Fold the overcast edge over to the back, and pin it over lapping the stitching.  Stitch from the right side, "in the ditch", next to the fold of the waistband.  Don't sew the ends.

For the drawstring, I use braided macrame cord, but you can use ribbon or twill tape, as long as it's strong enough.  Cut it your waist measurement plus about 12-18 inches.  Thread it through the waist band (that's why you don't sew the ends) and even up the ends.  At the center back of the bustle waistband, stitch vertically across the waistband, securing the drawstring so it doesn't slip out. 

Now you're ready for the fun part--tucking.  You can either do it with the bustle on someone else, or just lay it flat on the floor and pin it, then try it on to see how it looks.  Pleat it up to expose the under layers in 3-4 places on each band.  Then hand sew the pleats in place, just to that layer.

Now get out your skirt and corset and hat, and go Steampunkin!